The Other Day I thought about Surfing
Posted on August 22, 2011
So the other day I thought about surfing. I am not good at it, and I have only done it a few times. So here is what I know about surfing.
1. The Power behind surfing is the ocean not the surfboard, or the surfer.
2. Even the parts that look easy (Paddling out, sitting on your board waiting) are harder than they look. Especially if you are brand new.
3. You have a part and the wave has a part.
4. Your part is to learn some stuff.
5. This stuff must be learned by practice and multiple mistakes, not by reading.
6. The stuff you need to learn is about waves, and how they act. Without learning this your part will be wasted.
7. Timing is everything
8. Without learning how waves act, timing is impossible.
9. Some waves that seem to be the right one are not the right one when they get to you.
10. The reason for this may have to do with the shape of the bottom of the ocean which you cannot see.
11. You can learn to “see” the bottom of the ocean by watching how the waves act as they move toward you.
12. Waiting a long time is a significant part of getting the right wave at the right time in the right way.
13. When this happens, it is AWESOME!
14. Waiting is also AWESOME…you are in the ocean!!
15. While waiting you are likely to have numerous false starts..this is an essential part of learning to get to AWESOME!!!
16. The waves are pre-determined in their path and size.
17. You can catch them or miss them.
18. If you catch one, you have many options on the surface of the unchanging ever-changing wave.
19. Falling is an option, but when you do, you are still in the ocean.
20. If you miss one, another one is not far behind.
21. It is more fun with friends.
22. Getting in the ocean, also places you in the midst of predators.
23. Waves act differently in different places and different conditions. You must learn them again every time you surf.
24. Did I mention that when it all comes together it is AWESOME!
25. You don’t have to be an expert to play and experience AWESOME!
26. When you learn how a wave acts, and you pick the right one, and your timing is right, you start to move in the direction the wave is moving but suddenly the wave is moving you.
My Random thoughts on Surfing. How about you? Any Thoughts?